TIERED GOWN

Among the occasion gowns, a tiered empire-waisted number is always a standout with its elegant double-ruffled flounce. In coral silk taffeta, it’s unmistakably Oscar.

You will need:

• Approx. 4 ½ – 5  yds. [4.2 - 4.6 m] of fashion fabric, 60” [152 cm] wide
• 1 dress zipper, approx. 15” [30 cm] long
• Coordinating thread
• Kraft paper

MEASUREMENTS
Bust – measure around the fullest part of breast, just under the arm.
Chest – measure around upper torso, just under the breast.
Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso, just above navel.
Back width – measure across shoulder blades from armhole to armhole.

Back waist length – measure vertically from nape of neck to waistline.
Dart Size = 2 ¾” [7 cm].  (This is an average bust dart amount for a B-cup. More or less darting may be taken, if desired.)
PATTERN



Bodice Section:
Draw 2 lines at a 90° angle from point A.
A-B = ¾” [20mm].
B-C = back waist length.
Square across from C. (waistline)
B-D = half of B-C. (bustline)
D-E = quarter of B-C.
D-F = half of bust measurement.
Square up and down from F to locate G and H.
D-I = half of back width
F-J = half of back width + half of dart + ½” [12 mm].
K is located midway between I and J.
Square up from K to located L.
M is located at the intersection from J.
N is located at the intersection on the centerfront line.
F-O = 2 times distance of N-F.
Square across from O.
Square down from K to locate P at intersection.
G-Q = 3” [75 mm].
Q-R = dart size.
F-S = half of line F-J.
S-T = ½’ [12 mm].
Connect Q to T with a straight line and extend to waistline.
Connect R to T with a straight line and extend to waistline.
D-U = quarter of C-D.
Connect M to U with a straight line.
H-V = half of waist measurement less darting.
Join U to V with a straight line.
Place set square on line U-V and draw a line at a 90° angle to connect to P.
At M and P, smooth the chevron with a curve to blend the lines together.
Place set square on baseline and square a line to L. (side seam)
Shoulder strap front placement is located midway between side seam and dart. (■)
Shoulder strap back placement from side seam equals front amount + 1” [25 mm].
To complete draft, cut through the center of the bottom dart and close top dart to release it into bottom dart, pivoting at T. (see silhouette in diagram above)

Fitting Tip: Measure the bottom edge of the bodice pattern and compare to the chest measurement. Adjust the dart with the difference, if necessary.

Grainlines are parallel to CF and CB.
Add ½” [12 mm] seam allowance to bodice pattern. (Cut front pattern on fold)
For shoulder strap, draw a rectangle = back waist length X 5” [12.5 cm].